Chinese beauty and the cosmetics industry: Evolving ideals, market dynamics and influencer culture

The concept of “beauty” has always been significant in Chinese culture, evolving over time in response to historical and cultural changes. Along with beauty ideals, the products used to enhance natural appearance, such as skincare and makeup, have also undergone continuous development, leading to the emergence of a thriving cosmetics industry. The contemporary Chinese cosmetics industry is characterized by an evolving regulatory framework aimed at supporting the industry’s development in line with modernization, scientific progress and alignment with international standards. China is currently the world’s second-largest cosmetics market, which has experienced sustained growth, although this has recently slowed due to a challenging post-COVID-19 recovery process. Other key features include the emergence of Chinese beauty brands, an increasingly informed and discerning consumer base, and the rapid expansion of digital distribution channels. The social commerce sector, which integrates social interaction and online shopping, has grown significantly, driven by popular social media platforms such as Douyin and Xiaohongshu, which have incorporated e-commerce features, and by the rise of influencer marketing. Companies are increasingly relying on influencers’ online presence, leveraging their engagement with followers to enhance brand awareness and boost sales. In this context, Xiaohongshu provides a valuable insight into the characteristics of today’s Chinese cosmetics industry, particularly regarding the promotion of beauty brands and products. It represents a highly influential social media platform for product discovery and purchasing decisions, effectively combining entertainment and marketing while maintaining an underlying sense of authenticity that fosters user engagement and trust. The overall aim of this thesis is to explore how the Chinese cosmetics industry constitutes a complex sector, shaped by the interaction of multiple factors, including evolving beauty ideals, regulatory and market developments, as well as new forms of digital communication based on social media and influencers, which play a crucial role in driving demand for beauty products.