The Journey of Cotton: History, Sustainability, and Justice in the Textile Industry. The Kala Cotton Case in India as an Alternative to Mass Production.

Since ancient times, cotton has been a highly valued raw material, capable of shaping economic systems, cultural practices and social relations. Its history is intertwined with that of the communities that have cultivated and traded it, ultimately becoming a central resource in today’s global fashion industry. This thesis is the result of academic and bibliographical research as well as fieldwork conducted in India, it includes as a case study the local Khamir project, based in the state of Gujarat, which promotes sustainable cotton cultivation and textile production through the valorization of Kala Cotton, a traditional and resilient variety. The aim is to analyze how the cotton supply chain can be understood as a thread linking past and present, highlighting the connections between history, environment, and social justice, and offering insights for alternative models of development. Starting from the historical evolution of cotton and the crucial role of India in textile production, this thesis addresses the impact of British colonization, deindustrialization, and the birth of Indian nationalism, culminating in the contemporary challenges posed by fast fashion. The environmental and social consequences of the global textile industry are also examined, with a focus on labour exploitation and inequalities along production chains. The findings underscore the importance of developing alternative cotton supply chains to promote sustainability, social equity, and cultural preservation in the global textile industry.