Adornment, Identity, and Power: The Evolution of Rings in Gendered Socio-Cultural Contexts of the 13th–16th Centuries

This thesis examines the evolution of rings as artistic expressions and markers of socio-gender identity in Europe from the 13th to 16th centuries. Rings, while seemingly simple, carry intricate cultural, social, and symbolic meanings tied to identity, gender, and status. By analyzing historical texts like lapidaries and selected portraits, the study uncovers the multifaceted significance of rings across six chapters. Chapter one provides a historical overview of rings from prehistoric times through the Renaissance (1400–1599). Chapter two focuses on the evolution of ring styles and gemstones as influenced by lapidaries and artists of the 13th to 16th centuries. Chapter three examines rings in the context of social status, rituals, ceremonies like marriage, and their cultural meanings, including superstitions surrounding their use.The later chapters delve into specifics: chapter four explores the relationship between rings, fingers, and hands, emphasizing functional and symbolic aspects; chapter five highlights the depiction of rings in art, especially portraiture; and chapter six concludes with a comparative analysis of rings in socio-gender contexts. Findings reveal that while societal norms shaped the symbolism of rings, their stylistic evolution and representation transcended rigid gender definitions. Meaning often depended on the subjective interpretation of both wearer and viewer. This study enhances understanding of how material culture reflects social dynamics, class, artistic practices, and identities over time.